Mens jeans in fashion 2018

Mens jeans in fashion 2018

Sunday 25 June

Pipe up
Kenzo and Officine Generale have become the latest two labels to show clothing with piping down the edges - with said detailing down the side of trousers at the former and throughout the shirting and suiting at the latter. Looks like we'd all be wearing pyjamas 24/7, if the Paris designers had their way - something we wholeheartedly support.

Thom Browne's boys had some seriously impressive skills
Every look in the Thom Browne show had an element of gender duality to it, whether that was in the cropped-sleeve jackets, the long dress-like shirts that almost skimmed the floor or with pleated shirts instead of trousers - even a look that was a tux at the front and a wedding dress at the back. However, the most notable injection of femininity came from the fact that every model was wearing heeled brogue boots - and considering of these some were around 5 inches high, it was a testament to the skill of the models on the catwalk that none of them took a tumble on the tiled floor.

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2018
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Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

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Backstage we asked the designer (dressed in his signature tailored shorts suit, this season cut from cool grey seersucker to beat the blistering Paris heat) whether he'd chosen models who had walking in high heels listed as one of their specialist skills on their resumes. His response? "They had a couple of hours to practice, but some were definitely better than others to begin with!" Sterling work, gents.

The shows to know:

Officine Generale

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Officine Generale Spring/Summer 2018
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Officine Generale Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

After three weeks of shows (that's 10 appointments a day minimum, plus three missed weekends), it takes something pretty special to perk us up at 10am on the very last day of Paris Fashion Week - thankfully, Officine Generale, never disappoints. This season, designer Pierre Maheo brough the French chic in bucketloads, with a parade of covetable, wonderfully wearable summer suits, relaxed pleated trousers and light outerwear in a soothing, Paris-classic palette of black, grey, white and navy, with pops of lavendar and green. Continuing the Eighties vibe we've seen throughout Paris, jeans were light-washed with frayed hems and all-white looks were freshened up with strappy, Greek god sandals or leather slippers. There wasn't a single look we wouldn't wear - and, as for the summer suits (sharp shouldered-yet-slouchy jackets worn with tapered, cropped trousers), we'll take one in every colour.

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Lanvin

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2018
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Lanvin Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Lucas Ossendrijver might have been in charge of Lanvin's men's collections for a decade now, but over the past couple of seasons he's been shaking things up - and to great effect. For Spring/Summer 2018, he not only moved his show to the Bercy Arena - a vast, pyramid-like Brutalist hall often used for concerts by the Seine in the 14th - but he moved his menswear into a more utilitarian place. Staged in the round, models swerved between metal poles as fast as worker bees, wearing loose boiler suits under oversized overcoats, layered outerwear with contrast sleeves and military-style breast pockets, shorts with strapping and two-in-one trousers that zip off below the knee. There were skate elements too - slip-on sneakers, bucket hats and pop-over anoraks (some with a big, square zipped pocket in contrast fabric on the front). Colours were muted, with electric blue, lavender and red livening up a base palette of grey and khaki.

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Alexander McQueen

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Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2018
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Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

After a year-and-a-half showing the collection privately to press in the label's Milan showroom, Alexander McQueen returned to the catwalk - this season not in London, but fort he first time in Paris. And while it might not have been the summeriest summer collection (no shorts, lots of thick knitwear), it was a superb selection, one that married the label's costume-like eccentricity with cool, practical pieces. The line was dominated by deconstruction, with leather jackets and trousers slashed with zips, embroidered outerwear with threads flying loose and tailoring featuring multiple grey Prince of Wales checks competing for prominence. There were also adventuring references like rope belts with D-hook clasps, gloriously thick patterned jumpers, delicate tunic shirts with lace detailing and hiking boots. Perhaps a reference to Burton discovering pastures new for the label in Paris? Here's hoping next season she journeys back to London again.

Kenzo

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2018
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Kenzo Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

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Carol Lim and Humberto Leon tend to bring a futuristic zing to the Paris catwalks, and this season was no exception. However, what is interesting is that they often will do this through looking back and reinterpreting items from previous decades. For Spring/Summer 2018, there were distinct Sixties references (paisley prints, graphic florals in bold colours, retro American baseball-style trousers, three-button Beatles-vibe suits), but there was also plenty that looked like it had travelled back in time from where menswear might be going: spacey curved sunglasses with colourful lenses, fuzzy jumpers, album-cover T-shirts and a bold palette of purple, yellow, red and green.

Saturday 24 June

Sportswear's grown up
While sportswear has been a trend in the men's collections for a good few years now, this season is perhaps the first where it feels like big designers are putting the "luxe" in sportsluxe. From the lighter-than-light anoraks at Dries Van Noten to the custom Nikes at yesterday's Comme des Gecrons Homme Plus show, to the high shine, sporty layers and mock zip-up turtle necks slipped underneath the suits at Hermes today, athleisure is trending hard. It's almost as if there's been a group realistation among designers here in France that men's dress codes are quickly breaking down and that nowadays a guy's wardrobe needs to be more interchangeable than ever - and it's produced some of the most interesting collections we've seen in Paris for seasons.

Acceptable in the Eighties, acceptable now
There seems to be a bit of a Back to the Future vibe happening in Paris right now: there are nods to the Fifties in the collections, but also lots of references to the Eighties. That means styling like slicked pompadour-type hair, Cuban collar shirts, cardigans, and tight jeans rolled high above the ankle to expose white gym socks, but worn with boxy, oversized tailoring and outerwear (especially wide-shouldered double-breasted suit jackets). However, perhaps the most Eighties element of the season is the colour palette which seems, like the hues of the Dynasty decade, to be divided into two distinct camps: pastels (sherbert yellow, lavender, sky blue, baby pink) or eye-popping electrics (zingy blue, hot pink). Get flipping through your family photo albums - next season, your dad in his early 20s is your style icon.

Logos are big this season
Maybe it's the Gucci and/or Supreme effect, but there have been a lot of logo-splashed goods from established fashion houses this season - and what's more, these tend to be new riffs on the branding. So far we've seen Valentino debuting its VLTN on outerwear (a throwback to an Eighties logo from the archives), The Kooples flipping its name into mirror writing and switching to a sans serif font for next season, Dior Homme repping the serif Christian Dior branding on T-shirts, bracelets and skinny scarves (instead of its own sans serif branding), and Woooyoungmi unveiled its interlocking WYM logo on its white gym socks. Time to pick your team - looks like next season your wardrobe's getting tribal.

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The shows you need to know:

Acne Studios
Having sat in the stands at catwalk shows in the double digits by this point in the fashion week cycle, Acne Studios flipped the script on guests at their presentation by making them the main event. Following signs into the venue printed on A4 paper tacked to the wall, we walked through the backstage area before being filtered one-by-one through a doorway by a man with a headset. Once through we found ourselves on the catwalk with the models seated across from us as if in the audience, giving the occasional walker a standing ovation (not us, sadly - perhaps we need to work on a signature pose). However, behind all this staging was a superb collection, packed with loose outerwear (we particularly liked the checked trench coat), wider-than-wide leg trousers with scoop-necked vests tucked in, slim charcoal slacks with piping down the side and cool woven slippers and sandals in black and burgundy, all in shades of beige, baby blue, white and the occasional pop of green or raspberry red (all inspired by the colours summer houses are painted in Sweden, according to the label's creative director Jonny Johansson). Far from just being a jeansmaker, Acne is now establishing itself as a fashion label in its own right.

Hermes

Hermes Spring/Summer 2018
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Hermes Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

To say that Hermes is elegant season-after-season is an understatement: under creative director Veronique Nichanian, this label has become the epitome of elegance, the benchmark for male chic on the French fashion schedule. However, this season she brought brought youth to this chic-ness by adding in a whole host of references to sportswear, all executed in luxurious Hermes style: hoodies and suede overshirts with the Hermes chain link pattern, fine gauge turtle necks with a sporty stripe down the centre (a sort of mock track top) slipped under suits, high shine baseball jackets with contrast sleeves and knee-skimming parkas (some with beautiful contrast stitching), all mostly worn with loose chino-style trousers. In short, the kind of age-less collection that has elements for every man.

Friday 23 June

Berluti SS18 finale at the Monnaie de Paris

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La vie on rose continues in France

It now seems a foregone conclusion that, if you haven't already incorporated pink into your wardrobe, you will be doing so by this time next year. However, while there's still a representation for that warm, blush "Millennial Pink" that's bubbled up from the skate labels over the past season (see: cool French labels Editions MR and Sandro Paris), next summer there's going to be a whole lot of choice. In our opinion, to be ahead of the trend game either opt for electric-bright, hot pink (as seen on the biker jacket today at Yohji Yamomoto, the sequins at Comme des Garcons and yesterday in the prints at Ami), or an even more washed out pastel pink (as seen on jeans at Berluti).

Hawaiian shirts are trending hard
We've now seen short-sleeved collared shirt with new twists on bold, tropical prints at Louis Vuitton (floral with a gauze overlay), Ami (orange and pink florals), Cerrutti (blue and beige bamboo), and Sandro (blue and orange fish). Three's a trend, as they say - and we've seen at least four already.

Celebrities are thin on the ground this season

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While the front rows haven't ben as starry this season) perhaps with the exception of Louis Vuitton with its swathe of supermodels and #influencers), Dwayne Wade and Gabrielle Union are definitely putting in the time. Over in Paris from the USA, the basketball player and actress are the reining king and queen of the shows, and have so far seen sitting front row at (and repping head-to-toe looks by) Rick Owens, Berluti, and Maison Valentino, with Union going solo at Louis Vuitton.

The shows you need to know:

Berluti

Berluti Spring/Summer 2018
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Berluti Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Following on from his beautiful eponymous show yesterday, Haider Ackermann's second season at the helm of the Italian shoemaker's relatively recent full-menswear collection was a masterclass in understated elegance. Set in the grand, auspicious courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris - the Paris mint - the looks were chic and easy-to-wear: sleek silk joggers in neutral tones, rock 'n' roll vests worn with tailored pleat trousers, all-black suiting with that slim-yet-relaxed cut the designer does so well worn over T-shirts and sandals. The palette was dominated by neutrals (cream, black, beige and rich chocolate brown), with interest coming from colour pop items such as lavendar trousers, a sorbet-yellow leather jacket and, our personal favourite, blush pink jeans. In short, we'd say it's the sort of gotta-have-every-item collection that's going to make money - which, given the location, seems rather apt.

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus

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  • Women we love this week: Paris

    Women we love this week: Paris

Comme des Garcons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2018
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Comme des Garcons Homme Plus Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

In a complete curveball move, Rei Kawakubo put away her traditional palette of blacks, neutrals and muted colours and instead took Commes des Garcons Homme Plus put away its to the disco. With the audience packed around a central stage in the Salle Wagram (a historic, ostentatious ballroom first opened in 1865), the models hit the dancefloor under swirling coloured lights in sequin-drenched shorts, animal pattern T-shirts, and drapey jackets cut from a patchwork of fake fur and velvet, bouncing around in the chic-est moshpit ever in their colourburst Nike Air Max. High colour, high fun, the finale was met with rapturous applause from the audience - as we reach the halfway point of PFW, this was the show equivalent of a double espresso which perked everyone up. A youthful, joyful presentation and collection from a legendary designer who is still clearly at the top of her game.

Cerruti

Cerruti 1881 Spring/Summer 2018
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Cerruti 1881 Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Jason Basmajian brought an eclectic vibe to Cerruti this season, with a collection that felt distinctly modern while giving nods to the label's Eighties heyday. Boxy shouldered jackets that wouldn't look out of place on a Roxy Music album cover were worn alongside loose-cut trousers and all-cream looks plus pops of electric blue brought a hint of Miami Vice, yet this was all tempered with the introduction of right-now items (such as a boiler suit and square-cut short-sleeve shirts, some in leather, some with botanical prints) and cool, clashing downward stripes.
And those knee-skimming long belts we mentioned yesterday were also represented, this time worn in co-ordinating colours with slouchy-smart tailored trousers or Bermuda shorts. Sporty, luxurious and rebellious, it was the sort of wardrobe that would make you look good at any event no matter the dress code.

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Thursday 22 June

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Going up: stacked shoes
Good news for any man who wants to add an extra couple of CMs - next season, shoes are set to be thicker-soled than ever. From the chunky-yet-sleek black boots at Ami to striped platform sandals at Louis Vuitton, stacked soles are making a play for your footwear collection. The question is, will this be the direction pipedream of French designers or will this trend tip into our everyday wardrobes?

Time to get waisted
With a booming men's accessories market, many brands include a lot of product in their shows to give buyers as much variety as possible - so concrete accessories trends are often hard to pin down. However, one is coming through very strongly in Paris already: long belts. So far we've seen extra-long belts, with one end nearly skimming the knee, at Ami and The Kooples in contrast leather and at Dries Van Noten in a complimentary fabric to the trousers it's being worn with. Perhaps it's a sign that, following the Nineties revival, designers are prepping to move into nods to menswear trends from the early 2000s?

However, it's not just the length that's notable: designers seem to be singling out your belt as the accessory to concentrate on for the season across the board. For example, the crisp 'n' louche, stripey and spotty looks at Haider Ackerman were often split up with a contrasting leather belt.

Spectacle shows are trending in Paris again
After a downbeat couple of seasons where designers opted for more conservative, simple venues, a sense of theatricality is returning to the schedule when it comes to locations. Just take a look at the Rick Owens show, where the designer showed his collection on multiple-layer ramps of scaffolding constructed in the courtyard of the artfully crumbling Art Deco Palais de Tokyo (it's usually staged in the basement of the building), with fans ad bucket hats provided as protection against the blazing sun. To close the day, Dries Van Noten took his audience to an office space at the top of a nondescript multistorey car park - the former home of French political newspaper Liberation, complete with stained carpet tiles, wonky office lamps, piles of old magazines and dusty iMac G3s, like some sort of land-based Marie Celeste of the early 2000s. Outside, a jaw-dropping view twenty storeys up across the rooftops of Paris stretching from the Eiffel Tower to La Defense to Sacre Coeur and beyond - plus a strong breeze, which, on a day with 37 degree heat, could not have been more appreciate by those in the audience.

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The shows you need to know:

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2018
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Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

While hype surrounding the new Drake material - commissioned especially to soundtrack the show - might have been the big talking point on social media, the clothes that marched out to the music was equally conversation-starting. Having started teasing the collection using the label's Instagram two days before the show - giving a hint at a redesigned logo, Hawaiian prints, shell necklaces and travel tag luggage labels - the show brought those holiday vibes out in force, mixing them with future-sport elements. The result for Kim Jones' post-Supreme collection was leggings and cycle shorts worn with loose, voluminous anoraks, lighter than light raincoats billowing in the breeze over striped shirts and slouchy, pleated trousers, and bold, tropical-print short-sleeve shirt (often with a light gauze over the top to add interest). Expect to see Drake repping all of it on his next tour.

Ami

Ami Alexandre Mattiussi Spring/Summer 2018
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Ami Alexandre Mattiussi Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Alexandre Mattiussi also brought some much-needed colour to the summer season, not just with the bright pink sand covering his catwalk, but also on the clothing. For Spring/Summer 2018, the Ami collection is dominated by orange, green and pink, sometimes worn as bold blocks of colour (or as striped denim) and other times mixed together in floral patterns on short-sleeved shirts - an item that's fast becoming Mattiussi's signature. Ami's key clothing shapes were all there (boxy jackets, oversized coats, below-the-knee shorts, zipped track tops), but one notable remix was in the designer's tailored, pleated trousers, which were cut longer than ever and worn with a generous turn-up of around 10cms. After a few seasons concentrating on dark colours, it was a return to the upbeat patterns and colours that have made Mattiussi such a hit with menswear fans. "I wanted to create Paris a la plage," the designer said when I asked him about the collection backstage, "with tourists coming from all over the world to enjoy this city. I just wanted it to be really summery."

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Valentino

Valentino Spring/Summer 2018
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Valentino Spring/Summer 2018

Spring/Summer 2018

Since Maria Grazia Chiuri left for Dior, Pierpaolo Piccioli's two solo collections have brought more of an eclectic vibe to Valentino. This season saw a predominantly sportswear-based collection remixed with embroidery from native cultures around the world, paint-splattered coats and an all new logo - "VLTN", the fashion label's Eighties branding taken from the archives. The resulting looks were a feast for the eyes: tracksuits with white beading, embroidered anoraks, layers-upon-layers of product to buy - and every single look worn with a long, slim scarf that slipped underneath the models' top layers and resurfaced at trouser level. The brand's trademark military greens and khakis were there (side note: we particularly loved the new season chinos, pin-tucked at the hem to create a dramatically tapered shape), but this collection mixed in pastel greens, blues and pinks too. However, our attention kept being drawn downwards to the models' feet, which featured trainers in a brand new silhouette - one lace-up, the other sock-style - with an eye-popping range of colours and fabrications, including removable fringing, mirrored details and beading.

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